A Book is an evidence, evidence of the past. Each page represents a moment of different significance and value. Archiving and compiling moments into words and pages distort reality - it makes the moment old, but it makes the moment part of the story imbedded in the world. Each person comes to this world to tell the story of its own. He comes here unaware, but in the course of life wearing out, he wants to make others aware of himself. Viktor and Rolf are claimed to be fashion artists, and art is usually valued in terms of its future value. Overlaid and piled up what will be the role of what they do today in the next century?
My research starting point was the notion of time and its perception. Time distorts reality, making some moments bigger and some smaller then they actually were. Writing and consequently books were the instrument of recording moments and bringing them through time. The function of carrying information through time to all literate audience made books early on the instrument of manipulation and a power tool. Once created the text start to live its own life - with the invention of printing - this life is almost eternal. Books do carry evidence of the past not only in the content, but in their physical state as well: it is the story overlaid over the story in the book. Where the book was held, how many times leafed through, annotated, stained or smeared.
In the design development process, I was primarily driven by the physical characteristics of printed books. The garment consists of rectangular ‘sheets’ sewn together on the edges as if gathered in a binding. Rectangular shapes for book pages existed from the earliest times, because it was the most efficient way of cutting cow or calf skin which was used to produce vellum. The silhouette comes from numerous books in the process of reading with its leafs turned half way through. The fabric choice refers the off-white opaque paper used in printing as it is easier to read from and does not allow show-through from one side of the page to the other. Text is burnt out from the fabric implying the power of words in Russian tradition associated with the phrase by Woland in Bulgakov’s novel — ’Manuscripts don’t burn’. Key seams are made with the strong threads in the style of hand stitched book bindings, the fastening is invisible — magnets imbedded between layers allow to close the garment and hold it together, as the book is held closed stuck between other books on the book shelf.
I believe, the final design coincides with the Viktor & Rolf DNA, as it is quite spontaneous in terms of shape and silhouette, it holds some features of the house aesthetics - repetition and exaggeration, as well as literal translation of the object.